Northern light

Northern light

‘Don’t expect wacky flavour combinations from me,’ says Adam Smith from his new fiefdom at The Devonshire Arms in North Yorkshire.

The 26-year-old Roux scholar and former Ritz sous chef has brought his classical cooking north to the hotel’s hallowed Burlington Restaurant, where trad pairings are presented with thoroughly modern delicacy.

Smith admits he hadn’t realised how many culinary hotspots lie within reach: ‘Simon Rogan’s L’Enclume and The French, the Star at Harome, the Box Tree in Ilkley…’ Best not mention that oversight to the locals.

The Burlington Restaurant at The Devonshire Arms, Bolton Abbey, Skipton, North Yorkshire (+44 1756 710441; Doubles from ?250; dinner about ?130 for two

Published in Conde Nast Traveller December 2013

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